Biodynamic Brilliance
Biodynamic and organic wines are having a delicious moment – and our resident wine expert Tony Cox is always happy to put them to the test.
Many years ago, when your scribe was but a pup in the wine game, I had the great fortune to spend a little time with a winemaker who was a true believer in organic and biodynamic farming.
The timeline was the mid-90s and organic farming practices were just beginning to emerge. I had the opportunity to get exposure to two tanks of shiraz fermenting side-by-side: one organically grown, and the other grown utilising normal growing conventions of the period.
On the only scores that matter – colour, aroma and flavour – the organic wine was far superior.
At the time, consumers weren’t as passionate about organics as they are now. When it comes to fruit, vegetables, dairy, grains, wine and more, we have become a lot more considered in the past 25-30 years – which is a mere blink of an eye when you consider how long we have walked the planet.
Over the years, more and more winemakers have come to realise that, in order to make the best wine possible, you need to start with the best fruit that nature can deliver in each vintage.
This doesn’t mean that all farming is organic, however, there has been a dramatic shift towards sustainable farming practices and the notion of the viticulturalist being merely a custodian of their land – having a responsibility to ensure the land continues to thrive for future generations.
There are two main deterrents to winemakers adopting organic farming practices. Firstly, humidity late in the ripening season often means winemakers will want to spray for mildew for economic reasons.
And secondly, for winemakers who export, there are various definitions of ‘organic’ wine in different markets. This means they need to pay for certification and adhere to the respective labelling requirements in each market their wines are sold in, which can be difficult and time consuming.
This brings me to two of Australia’s leading wineries: Cullen and By Farr.
Cullen is now in the hands of the next generation, daughter Vanya, and is perhaps the foremost biodynamic winemaker in the country.
Known for great cabernet and chardonnay from Margaret River, the wines have great purity and intensity of fruit. The 2023 Diana Madeline Cabernet blend has been receiving widespread acclaim upon release.
Similarly, Nick Farr is the second generation winemaker at By Farr just outside of Geelong, which is one of Australia’s leading chardonnay and pinot noir producers.
Whilst both families share a philosophy that great wines are made in the vineyard with minimal intervention, Cullen goes one step further and has their wines certified biodynamic. Does that make them better? Well taste is always personal so grab a bottle of By Farr Chardonnay, put it alongside a Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay and judge for yourself – now that would make a great afternoon!
Cheers and good drinking!
