Dynamic and Delectable with Whisky Boy
Our next wine lunch at Whisky Boy promises to be dynamic and delectable with organic and biodynamic wine selections, writes Tony Cox.
Back in a previous life I had the pleasure of working with chef-owner Geoffroy Marcq at both berardo’s and the old Noosa Food & Wine Festival and his food has always been nothing short of excellent.
Having also enjoyed a Duck and Pinot Dinner at Whisky Boy among other meals there, the next visit to the venue is set to be fantastic with the focus being on ‘natural’ wines.
According to co-owner Jimmy Talve, wine lunches offer the perfect opportunity to showcase something different and to demonstrate the powerful partnership that comes from pairing the wine with food.
“Often people are hesitant to try something new so being able to introduce new wines and perfectly matching them with food is great,” Jimmy said. “We love it as well as it gives Geoffroy the opportunity to create something different in the kitchen.”
The focus for this event will be on biodynamic and natural wines and will kick off with a ‘Bizzarro Spritz’, which is the name of the Aperitivo from Delinquente wines in South Australia. The spritz also includes their Pet Nat wine and will be served with Ham and Semi-dried tomato bread and white anchovies.
“A nice light start to the afternoon with the spritz cutting through the salt of the anchovies,” Jimmy says.
Let’s kick things off in service order where the 2019 Hochkirch Riesling will commence proceedings. Based in the Henty G.I. in south-west Victoria and first planted in 1990 Hochkirch has employed biodynamic farming practices in the vineyard for over 20 years. The 20 acres that comprises the vineyard is part of a larger farm of 700 acres, all of which is biodynamically certified.
Henty as a region is cold by mainland standards and when combined with 250 metres of elevation produces elegant wines with a clean acid spine. To assist in maintaining vine warmth through the cooler months the vines were close planted by Australian standards, some 5000-6000 vines per hectare.
The 2019 Riesling features crisp acidity, with flavours in that lemon/citrus spectrum. Given the wines are biodynamic sulphur presence is minimal.
This will be matched with a Vegetable terrine with Chorizo dip. Being a drier style Riesling with a texture that will match with the flavour of the chorizo, the fat and saltiness will pair perfectly. The Terrine will help to balance the dish and keep things light. After all, we’re just getting started.
Next up is Smallfry, the brainchild of two viticulturalists who chose to make wines from the fruit they grow. Based in the much warmer region of Barossa two vineyards, one on the valley floor and one in the more elevated Eden Valley, provide the fruit for their wines. Certified organic/biodynamic since 2014 the winemaking is soft touch in the cellar to allow the fruit to speak.
The 2021 Barossa Tangerine Dream is a blend of several white grape varietals utilising skin contact but in a more restrained way to seek the middle ground between a generous oaky chardonnay and the more in–your-face style many devotees seek out. The grapes come from very old rootstock in the Barossa with Semillon and Pedro Ximenez providing freshness and the bulk of the blend, some citrus elements as well, Riesling delivering some perfume as well as acidity, Roussanne bringing phenolics to the back palate and a small amount of muscat adding pronounced floral notes.
Despite being cloudy this will offer enough for the checked flannelette shirt brigade, complete with forearm tatts and long beards, whilst not playing too much with the minds of the more traditional drinkers among us.
Served slightly chilled to bring out its great flavour and matched with locally-caught fish rolled in Jamon with olives and pearl tabbouleh couscous; the full and dry palate will keep both the red and white drinkers happy.
According to Jimmy, orange wines have taken off in the big cities where they can’t keep up with the demand and while relatively new to the local palette, he’s confident of having a few converts after the lunch.
The final wine in the line up is a collaboration between two Gippsland-based winemakers, Patrick Sullivan and Xavier Goodridge. Their Jumpin Juice range sources fruit from various G.I.’s in the country. Having made their reputations on minimal intervention wines the 2020 Single Vineyard Grenache, from an elevated site in the Blewitt Springs subregion of McLaren Vale, is grown on sandy soils producing lighter, more perfumed fruit with a little more acidity due to elevation. The resultant wine is light, perfumed with a juiciness to cut through each mouthful. It can also stand a little time in the fridge door prior to serving or, more in tune with Noosa, dangle it in the river and have with your baguettes when out in the sun in winter. Again, addition of sulphur is minimal.
A lighter style red that will be served slightly chilled and served with Lime & coconut pannacotta with ginger crumble. Jimmy says the flavour and texture of the Pannacotta mixed with the hint of heat from the ginger crumble will make this
a ‘smashable’ wine. Best ensure you’ve booked an Uber.
Overall, three wines from three different regions all utilising minimal intervention in the winery to produce flavour-filled wines. When combined with Geoffroy Marcq’s deft hand in the kitchen and quality ingredients that are allowed to sing, you have one helluva lunch coming up.
Tickets always sell out to our IN Noosa Magazine wine lunches so don’t delay, book the lunch and order your Uber now!