The Woodshed Way: The Woodshed at The Kin Kin Hotel
John Caruso discovers a place where fire meets flavour, and every night is a story worth savouring.
There are dinners you remember for the food, the flavours, the textures, the mastery on the plate. And then there are dinners you remember because every element of the experience surpasses expectations.
At The Woodshed, the fine dining space at The Kin Kin Hotel, the “soundtrack of the place”, as Head Chef Oscar Holgado describes it, are the hums, the clinks, and the murmurs. The spirit of the space that surrounds you.
As soon as I met Oscar, I knew that the kitchen he runs, and the dining room he serves, would be something special.
“I love the aesthetics of The Woodshed,” he tells me. “Lighting the fires, looking at all the finishes, the surrounding greenery, it’s just a beautiful place to work in.”
That’s a telling line from a man who worked the fine-dining circuit in London before finding his calling at Kin Kin.
The Woodshed’s design is a story of sustainability and local craftsmanship.
It started life as a dusty, windowless agricultural shed, corrugated iron still proudly holding its place, but today, thanks to the deft design skill and attention to detail of co-owner Ellie Ezrine, those rugged bones have been transformed into an inviting, meticulously-crafted space that leaves you wondering how ‘rustic’ and ‘refined’ can co-exist so perfectly.
Picture this, large windows cut by local artisans, polished concrete floors, handblown light fittings, stacked firewood and exposed timber beams, and a stunning bench top made from Flame Tree stone, an earthy, unique surface that glows with rich yellows and greens.
The open kitchen’s centrepiece is a woodfire grill, along with ceramic Big Green Egg smoker and a wood-fired oven, blending tradition with a dash of quirky functionality. It’s a space that radiates craftsmanship and love for the raw materials, the same ethos that flows through every dish.
Oscar’s story fits perfectly with The Woodshed’s feel. He grew up in southeast London with Spanish roots, carrying nostalgia for family meals where the kitchen was alive with stories, laughter, and the scent of garlic and parsley clams or homemade tortillas.
That heart is captured in his food – simple, straightforward, letting the ingredients speak for themselves, but with a deep understanding of where everything comes from.
Owner David Ezrine shares the passion about working with the land and a commitment to sustainability
Across from The Kin Kin Hotel, he’s investing in a significant onsite kitchen garden and farm which provides vegetables, meat and more to support The Woodshed and The Kin Kin Hotel. There’s also The Bakehouse, where Richard and Kirsty Mundt make divine sourdough bread, cakes and pastries, including a popular gluten-free range.
What they don’t grow or make themselves, they source as locally as possible and Oscar works with local farmers seeking chemical-free, biodynamic principles wherever possible. Oscar says it’s all about respecting the land and its gifts and he works with suppliers to secure ethically raised seafood and meats, including Wagyu x Jersey, all butchered animals in-house, using every cut creatively, from stocks to homemade mortadella and cured ham.
“It’s about balance, flavour and respect. Bringing the whole animal in allows us to use every bit responsibly,” says Oscar who also loves spending time in the garden, inspired by what they are growing and how to incorporate it into dishes. It’s a reminder that fine dining doesn’t have to be fancy just for fancy’s sake. It can be rooted in the local, the real, and the honest.
What struck me most was how Oscar and Venue Manager PJ Choroomi describe the dining experience itself, not just what’s on the plate but how it’s shared. An experienced hospitality professional, PJ says they wanted to step away from the transactional service culture for a more genuine feel.
“The Woodshed is curated like a dinner party among friends, where everyone arrives together, breaks bread together, maybe even makes a few new friends by the night’s end,” he explains. “There’s room for private tables but there’s also this sense of sharing in a special experience that invites connections.”
When you walk in, you feel it immediately, the warm glow from the lighting, the crackle from the open fire, the gentle murmur of conversation, the chiming of cutlery and glasses.
It isn’t noisy or overwhelming, but it has a definite pulse, a consistent hum. As Oscar says, a soundtrack! PJ and Oscar collaborate closely, especially with wines.
“Our pairings aren’t a set menu,” PJ says. “We curate the experience guest to guest. We ask where they want to go with their palate, playful, funky, traditional. Then we take them on a journey exploring that.”
I’ve spent enough time in restaurants to know a chef’s love for their space and craft often translates through every bite. Oscar’s passion is unmistakable in the calm efficiency of the kitchen, the firelight that warms the room, and the sincere hospitality that PJ delivers.
The wonderful thing about it is that you can book a room upstairs in The Kin Kin Hotel and while it may be more than 110 years old, Ellie’s deft touch has extended to rooms that honour the past with all the luxuries of the present.
“It’s like staying at a bed and breakfast with a whole lot of friends,” he says. “You start with a seven-course degustation, drinks by the fire and then locally-baked breads and pastries with fresh eggs and bacon for breakfast the next day.”
If you’re after an unforgettable experience with a soundtrack that lingers long after the last glass is drained, you can’t go past The Woodshed. It is more than just fine dining; it’s a gathering of place, people, and flavour where you leave feeling refreshed, nourished, and already planning to return.
