Bandita But Better
A much-loved modern Mexican cantina has evolved into a bold celebration of Latin America with delicious new dishes and fresh faces. Deb Caruso explores why this riverfront restaurant deserves your attention.
There is a moment at Bandita when the sun drops behind the Noosa River, the margaritas arrive and the menu begins to traverse the fresh, bright flavours of Latin America. From Mexico to Brazil, Peru and Ecuador, chef-owner Jason Jones is taking diners on a delicious tour of South America – one smoky skewer, rich stew and vibrant salsa at a time.
The Gympie Terrace restaurant may be known for housemade tostadas and ‘never-just-one’ margaritas, but Bandita Cantina Latina has evolved with exciting new flavours to explore.
“Inspired by everything from Tulum’s spice-lined markets to Argentina’s open-fire grills and the Nikkei influence of Brazilian dishes, expect vibrant dishes, smoky flavours, sunset margaritas, and unforgettable moments shared with your favourite people,” Jason says. “Bold flavours, local produce and genuine hospitality is what we’re all about.”
I love exploring new parts of the world one mouthful at a time so asked Jason to be my virtual tour guide and take me through the dishes I need to know about – and how to pronounce them! Let’s begin with Feijoada (feh-JEWAH-da), Brazil’s national dish. It is a rich black bean stew loaded with smoked pork, beef, chorizo and pork hock, served with rice, sautéed greens, orange and farofa (fa-ROH-fa) which is toasted cassava flour, adding a nutty, crumbly texture to the hearty stew. Presentation is everything and Jason engaged Pottery for the Planet to add extra magic to the experience of sharing what he describes as ‘a Brazilian cassoulet’.
“This dish is known for bringing everyone together and in Brazil, this happens almost weekly – Feijoada is put in the middle of the table and everyone just serves it up. It’s like a banquet,” Jason says. ”
If feijoada is comfort food, Coxinha (koh-SHEEN-ya) is Brazil’s answer to the perfect snack. These teardrop-shaped potato croquettes are filled with confit chicken and cream cheese, fried until crisp and served with Jason’s homemade chilli jam and a rich birria (a savoury Mexican broth made with goat, beef, or lamb slow-cooked in a spiced chilli broth) for dipping.
“It’s like a flavour bomb,” he says.
The Peruvian influence arrives in the form of Anticuchos (an-ti-KOO-chos) – traditionally barbecued skewers marinated with Peruvian spices. Bandita’s skewer plate features free-range chicken thigh, Tasmanian lamb rump, Wagyu marble 9+ steak, plus king oyster mushroom and pineapple for vegetarians. Don’t be thinking these are ordinary backyard skewers – the flavour comes from aji panca and aji amarillo, two distinctive Peruvian chillies, before the skewers hit the charcoal grill.
“What makes it Peruvian is the marinade,” Jason explains. “It’s cooked over the flame, over charcoal.”
For the ultimate refreshment and most interesting flavour combination, try the Watermelon Tiradito (tee-rah-DEE-toh). Inspired by thinly sliced raw fish dressed in Peruvian-style citrus and chilli, Jason’s vegan version pairs watermelon with avocado, pickled ginger, Amarillo chilli and three-year-aged tamari. Not just any tamari – this one is aged in cedar barrels with only limited bottles released and is the hero of the dish with a deep, savoury flavour that brings a complex, umami-rich character to the watermelon.
Jason’s Ecuadorian Encocado (en-koh-KAH-doh) brings the ocean to the table. Sustainable swordfish sourced from Soulfish Noosa is cooked over the fire and slowly simmered in an Ecuadorian coconut sauce of coconut, citrus and spices, finished with tomato, coriander and fried plantain.
“Perfect for spring,” Jason says.
Don’t despair – there are still plenty of Bandita favourites, including Street Corn with chipotle mayo, queso fresco, pepita spice and lime; Puffed Pork Chicharron with pear and Davidson plum; and the Moreton Bay Bug Tostadita with celery, serrano chilli and chive cream.
For sides, try Jason’s colourful Argentinian rice with red chimichurri folded through and topped with toasted rice, while weekly organic vegetables from Grub Farm bring a constantly changing element to the menu. Leave room for dessert – or a dessert cocktail!
Jason and Amy welcome the addition of Niccolò Fagherazzi to the team. Formerly of Nudge Nudge, Wink Wink in Noosa Junction, Nicco’s arrival is a meeting of complementary strengths.
After a career spanning commercial kitchens, restaurant ownership, front-of-house leadership and wine service, the Venetian-born hospitality professional was drawn to Bandita by Jason’s food, humility and appetite for evolution. Having seen the restaurant’s potential as a riverside gathering place, Nicco is helping shape the next phase: bringing the food, drinks and atmosphere together as one cohesive experience, while retaining Bandita’s easy-going character.
Margaritas remain firmly on the menu, but Nicco is expanding the conversation to include the spirits and drinking traditions of Brazil, Peru, Chile and Cuba. A bright cucumber Pisco Sour puts a fresh spring spin on the classic cocktail made with Pisco – the grape-based spirit at the centre of a long-running Peru-versus-Chile origin debate – while a coconut-inflected caipirinha introduces cachaça, Brazil’s sugarcane spirit.
There is also a Hemingway Daiquiri, delivering rum, citrus and a touch of old Havana, plus a non-alcoholic Brazilian lemonade made by blending whole lime with coconut water and condensed milk. The result is tangy, creamy and slightly sweet – made for long afternoons on the terrace as the sun slips across the river.
Great restaurants are always hungry for more and Jason invites locals or visitors from South America to try his interpretations and to challenge him to create their favourite dish from home. At Bandita, you don’t need a passport to experience the flavours of Latin America – simply take a seat and enjoy.
