Beauty Spot: AHAs
Welcome to Beauty Spot – where we demystify buzz-worthy skincare ingredients so you can be confident in the skin you’re in! This issue, Rebecca Jamieson Dwyer discovers the benefits of amazing AHAs.
Let us introduce you to AHAs – your secret weapon when it comes to effective yet gentle exfoliation to achieve a gorgeous glow! AHAs – aka Alpha Hydroxy Acids – are exfoliating fruit acids that can be applied topically to the skin in the form of cleansers, toners, face pads, serums and moisturisers. But who should be using them, and how can they slot into our skincare routines? We caught up with expert beauty therapist Jenny Wilson from Noosa Body and Skincare and dermal therapist Debra Porritt from Cosmedic Lab to find out everything you need to know about these fruity beauties.
AHAs have a host of benefits
Loved by beauty therapists, AHAs really do live up to their amazing reputation, providing safe exfoliation for most skin types.
“When used correctly, they are wonderful for boosting the skin’s acid mantle to protect you from bacteria, and also for regulating and speeding up cell turnover to smooth the skin and increase absorption levels of cosmeceutical ingredients to enhance treatment results,” Cosmedic Lab’s Debra explained. “They are often blended with BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids, which are a much larger molecule size than AHAs) to target oil, enlarged pores and redness.”
But some people can be put off by the name. “Don’t let the word ‘acid’ scare you – clients freak out and think of that Sex and the City episode when you talk about acids!” Jenny from Noosa Body & Skincare says.
“The right AHA ingredients are more gentle and effective than most scrubs.
“Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane, my favourite for a cleanser; lactic acid is derived from milk, my favourite for a peel; and malic acid is derived from apples and pears. Citric acid is derived from citrus fruit, which I love for brightening the skin; mandelic acid is derived from almonds and; tartaric acid is derived from grapes. The options are endless!”
Consider your skin type
It’s important to understand your skin type when delving into AHAs in order to get the best result. Debra advises that they are particularly good for frequent use on oily, thickened, acne-prone, congested or sun-damaged skin.
“At Cosmedic Lab, we look at the typical skincare regime of the client and prescribe the time of day and how many days per week to apply the AHAs, based on what other ingredients the client is applying to the skin,” she says.
“For example, Vitamin C and AHAs will work nicely together if applied at the same time, whereas AHAs and niacinamide together are not usually optimal. We can tailor the strength and frequency of application to suit the client’s skin goals.”
Customise your treatment
By now, you might be thinking that AHAs are a miracle worker and you’re ready to start embracing them with gusto – but don’t do anything drastic until you’ve checked with a skincare expert.
“They can have great benefits, but it’s important to match the skin type to the frequency of application,”
Debra says. “More is not always better; overuse can cause problems. A skin consultation with a dermal therapist can educate you on usage to maximise your results.”
Jenny agrees adding: “Don’t use a particular product just because your favourite influencer recommends it!
“This is why we are seeing so many people with sensitised skin. People on Instagram may be in a different country with different environmental factors, not to mention have a totally different skin type to you. Instead, ask your therapist, ‘I’ve seen this on socials, how will this benefit me?’ and we’ll let you know which product will suit you best and how to use it.”
Things to consider
It’s a good idea to start slowly to see how your skin tolerates the product, then aim to gradually build up to more regular use. And remember, AHAs are an exfoliant, so don’t use them on damaged skin.
“Never use AHAs if your skin is sunburnt, irritated, waxed or lasered, or has open cuts or wounds,”
Jenny advises. “They are safe to use in small doses when pregnant, but always check with your GP.
“It’s normal to experience a slight tingle to begin with when using AHAs, but it should never burn!”
With their anti-ageing, skin-smoothing, glow-inducing powers, it’s time for your ah-ha AHA moment.
AWESOME AHAs
Synergie Reveal
This serum contains a blend of 13% AHA and BHA fruit acids that work on several different layers of the skin for ultimate brightness, increased hydration, reduced oiliness, smoothness and luminosity. There is also a stronger 22% version for cases requiring extra exfoliation and acidity, such as acne, congestion or thickened skin.
Dermalogica Liquid Peelfoliant
This product is magic! It’s a professional-grade at-home peel with a blend of 30% acids and enzymes: glycolic, lactic, salicylic, phytic and tranexamic acid (amazing for pigmentation), plus gluconolactone and fermented pomegranate enzymes. It can be used one to three times a week. Jenny uses it five nights in a row to get the desired effect, then not again for a few weeks.
asap Radiance Serum
This powerful serum reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation and improves skin tone and texture for a clearer, brighter complexion. Featuring a potent AHA/BHA complex, it deeply exfoliates and helps treat and prevent breakouts, while Biomimetic Tripeptide accelerates cell renewal and delivers intense hydration. Enriched with White Tea, Bilberry and Mulberry, it offers antioxidant protection against free radical damage and has anti-inflammatory benefits.
Eminence Mangosteen Daily Resurfacing Cleanser
This cleanser has an Acid Complex (lactic acid, ribose, Red Clover Flower Extract): a proprietary blend of actives that gently resurface skin and refine pores for a more luminous, even and youthful-looking complexion. Extend the benefits of a treatment or peel at home as this milky gel lightly lathers to slough off dead skin without manual exfoliation or over-stripping. The Lactic Acid Complex and mangosteen work together to restore a smooth, radiant complexion.
Ultraceuticals Ultra Brightening Serum
Part of the ultra-brightening range, this serum is enriched with a powerful complex of brightening ingredients such as Niacinamide, Hydroxyresveratrol and Acetyl Zingerone and work synergistically to visibly enhance the skin’s natural luminosity.
Ultraceuticals Ultra Even Skintone Smoothing Serum
This liquid exfoliator contains high levels of powerful ingredients: AHAs, BHA and Niacinamide to help exfoliate, clarify and refine the surface of the skin.
